The earth is my religion

“So will I build my altar in the fields, And the blue sky my fretted dome shall be, And the sweet fragrance that the wild flower yields, Shall be the incense I will yield to Thee” – Samuel Taylor Coleridge

I was asked to write my first blog for the YES website and like anyone with an ounce of passion in them I jumped at the chance of writing about the one thing that gets me brimming with enthusiasm. Of course, with it tags along the vivid memory of where this passionate affair with wildlife photography started.  They say home is where the heart is and mine surely lies in the middle of a dense forest. My first foray into the forest was also the first time I ever sighted a wild tiger. By principle I have never entered a zoo so this had to be the only way that I could be near wildlife. In the sweltering heat of late May, throat parched for the lack of water, skin burning till I thought my bones would melt and camera in hand, I had been waiting at a particular spot that I thought would be a good place to compose a photograph with a tiger in it. This wait had been on for almost over three hours and I could sense many around me had given up hope and decided to call it quits by leaving for the forest rest house. What remained was a very very enthusiastic senior couple and me. At some point I dozed off with my camera still pointed fixedly at the riverbed and that lovely cocoon of trees where I wanted the tiger to emerge from. All of a sudden our guide sent out a shriek that sounded a lot like Tiggggeeeeeer! And without much of a warning he simply wheeled me with my lens around to face a tiger staring at my backside. Now this was one of those moments where I didn’t know whether to shoot or simply let go and save my backside. Somebody covered my mouth so the scream let out by me couldn’t be heard and another whispered in my ear urging me to shoot. With trembling hands I started firing and to be very honest didn’t get a single worthwhile photograph. I was shaking too much and the tiger was much too close for comfort with nothing around that could save us lest he changed his mind. The adrenaline rush that I got from this first encounter was enough to set me off. It was an addiction and no amount of chasing wild tigers was ever going to be enough again. I haven’t looked back since then, and glad to state that my hands didn’t tremble again!   

The word nature brings to mind an assortment of memories for each. It could be as varied as sitting in the middle of a farm and listening to that early morning birdsong to experiencing winter rain on a mountain while out on a trek to being outdoors in the wild chasing tigers. As for me it always ignites in me the thrill of knowing that I am in the presence of the most majestic animal that walked this earth. For many years now, I’ve spent a considerable part of my life whiling away my time chasing tigers and silently stalking birds at every opportunity I get. The interest into birding came mostly from having a lot of time on my hands to kill while waiting patiently for the tiger to come out in the forest. Before I knew it I was addicted to both and had gone from counting bird names on my fingers to keeping logs of hundreds of bird species that I eventually went on to photograph. The only regret is that I did not discover my love for wildlife at an earlier age. It remains a sad fact that through all the school years with all the intelligently thought out focused curriculum hardly any priority is given to teaching students about preserving their fast depleting and much pillaged natural heritage. We talk about trying to educate and build responsible citizens for the future without realizing that the first responsibility we have is to conserve what we came from.

One of my fondest memories of childhood was that of the sweet smell of earth after it rained followed by earthworms wriggling their way out of their flooded mud holes. I was always tempted to eat mud after that smell entered my nose. It’s been a few years now since I have smelled that same sweet smell and many more years since I have seen earthworms.

At the risk of sounding preachy I would like those that are reading this piece to stop and think about who is really going to face the impact of the destruction of our natural heritage. Does it feel like time to wake up, shake up and get our act together? Here is my point, stop being a passive sympathizer. Much can be salvaged even today if we can stop and think a little selflessly. Nature does not deserve your sympathy, it deserves action and the only way to bring about a change is to start at an individual level. Conservation is no longer a choice, it’s the only way forward for survival. The earth remains the only religion I believe in. It is whom I pray to and also whom I pray for.

About the author: Neha Parmar is a wildlife photographer and a conservationist with some tolerable talent for writing. If you liked, connected or have a contrary perspective with anything that you read please feel to share your feedback. To see more work by Neha Parmar you can get onto https://www.facebook.com/NehaParmarPhotography. 

Disclaimer: This article remains copyright of the author and is her individual perspective. If you wish to give any feedback please get in touch with the author. 

HOPING TO CLIMB THE LADDER OF CHANGE- A Residential Project report by the first ever Gold Awardees from St. Mary's School-safdarjung Enclave

An educational system isn't worth a great deal if it teaches young people how to make a living but doesn't teach them how to make a life. (Anonymous)

…we couldn’t have agreed to more. As part of the IAYP Gold Award residential project, five students of St. Mary’s School, along with Ms. Saryu Dahra (Social Worker, St. Mary’s School), went on to discover the unexplored village of Azadpura, in the remote area of Orchha, Madhya Pradesh. Our six-day research study (from 12 March 2012 to 17 March 2012) involved taking interviews and focused group discussions with the people of Azadpura. The main objective of our research study was to investigate the needs, challenges, hopes and attitudes of the people of Azadpura village, in the absence of basic facilities and appropriate conditions that are required to meet human rights.

The situation of people at Azadpura village is quite adverse. Where globalization has turned the world into one whole and created a borderless life, its benefits seem to have hardly reached the roots of this Indian village. Adam Smith rightly said – “No society can surely be flourishing and happy, of which the far greater part of the members are poor and miserable.”

Today, the village of Azadpura lacks the basic amenities such as the accessibility to quality education, heath care, safe drinking water and sanitation. Where the majority of men and women in Azadpura village are employed as agricultural laborers and farmers, their adversities can be identified as they are still dependent on monsoons as the major form of irrigation…local irrigation facilities are not up to the mark. Most of the households still use the conventional cooking fuels like firewood, kerosene and cow dung. The village electricity system is more unauthorized than authorized, and within the system, around 90% of the people are found to be stealing electricity. The village doesn’t even have a proper drainage system. The drainage system introduced by the government was far too risky and dangerous for the people as it was 5 feet deep and ill-structured. Eventually the villagers themselves had to close it up. There is no evidence of a proper health care facility in the village as there isn’t any hospital or clinic in the village. The villagers have to travel to Orchha (4 kms) or better still, Jhansi (15 kms), in case of any injury or sickness, and in the absence of any significant mode of transport.

The education status of Azadpura village is far more disappointing. The village school is just like any other small building in the village, where hardly any teaching takes place.  Parents as well as children themselves are not satisfied with the education provided to them. Teachers are often found to be sleeping during the classes and ask students to clean the classrooms using broom sticks.

All, however, is not gloomy. The village does have an anganwadi, which seems to be nominally functioning. The village also consists of some facilities such as a kirana store (General Provision Shop), and has moved up to organizing women’s Self Help Groups  (SHGs). Some government schemes have also been implemented in Azadpura village, such as the Mid-Day Meal Programme and the Integrated Child Development Scheme (ICDS). A local NGO, TARAGRAM, also provides employment and development opportunities, specifically to the adivasis or the tribal population of Azadpura village. These facilities speak much, but at the same time make us question the quality of services, when we find the people grossly dissatisfied with their plight. A small example can be expressed through the quote of a 12-year-old school-going child about the Mid-Day Meal Programme of the school – “The food that they provide is not at all good. Once I asked my teacher to replace my bowl of pulse as a house fly was found dead in it, but the answer I received was that I should remove and throw the fly out of the bowl and then I should enjoy the meal.”

While we hope to next work towards change and development in this beautiful and heart-rending village of Azadpura, it has been a great first step towards understanding the life and situations of our rural friends. In the process, we have not only learnt about the village, but have also learnt many social work practices and methods like Participatory Rural Appraisal (PRA), and professional field research. At the end of our trip, we have identified and strongly held that there is an immediate need of a school or an institution that would tackle majority of problems that are being faced by the people of Azadpura village. Our school’s principal, Mrs. Annie Koshi, has been supportive of our cause and has decided to push it forward with initiating a project to build a school in Azadpura. It is proposed that the school will not only provide quality education to the children, but also employment opportunities to the needy. With constructive steps in line, we wait to see positive results, and many smiles in Azadpura village, in the year of 2012. As the Chilean poet, Gabrriella Mistral said – “For many things we need can wait, the child cannot. To him, we cannot say, ’tomorrow’. His name is today.”

Although the research study took most of the time during the trip, we still got some time to explore the beautiful cultural and historical heritage of Orchha. The Jehangir Mahal, Ram Raja Temple and the Chhatris at Orchha were spectacular sights that transported us back in time! Our trip would not have been complete without the exciting adventure sports that we indulged in. Crossing the Betwa River and hiking across barren tracks of dry Orchha made for the most wonderful experiences. We not only explored these, but further explored the exemplary model village, TARAGRAM, set up by the well-known organization – Development Alternatives. At TARAGRAM, we explored innovative rural programmes (such as the paper recycling unit, green building solutions etc.), and further managed to participate in them. Of specific excitement was the Bundelkhand Community Radio, on which we were featured for the special Women’s Day programme.

Our IAYP residential trip has sure been the most memorable one. While the highlight remains rigorous research work, the learnings and the adventures seemed to have made up for all the sweat!

                                                                                                                       

By Gold Awardees- Abhishek Gupta, Shivani Tokas, Mahima Chopra, Dharmendra Kumar and Charu Satija from St. Mary’s School, Safdarjung Enclave, New Delhi. They will receive their Gold Awards at The Golden Jubilee Celebrations on 21st April 2012. 

Take the challenge of the Zanskar Expedition 2012 with Himalayan River Runners- Special rates for Award family

A geographical extension of the southwestern end of the Tibetan plateau, Ladakh is often referred to as “Little Tibet”. Indeed, both geographically and culturally there is little difference. Few places on earth match the grandeur and sheer magnitude of the Zanskar in Ladakh, the trans- Himalayan region on India’s northern borders.

Himalayan River Runners, the Award's Adventure Partner are organizing their 11-day expedition to this high altitude lunar landscape. It is a “once-in-a lifetime” experience combining the best of adventure and cultural insight into the lifestyle of these Himalayan and Trans Himalayan communities from the predominantly Islamic communities of Kargil to the predominantly Buddhist communities of Zanskar and an insight into their shared lifestyle in these barren lands.

Fly into Leh and spend the next 3 days on a mountain drive from Leh via Kargil to their river put-in. Few mountain drives offer such varied landscape from high altitude desert to an in your face Himalayan close-ups of the Nun Kun massif (23,400ft ASL) as one drives right below its northern face and its hanging glaciers. The final road leg crosses the Pensi-la 14500 ft ASL, the highest point of the trip with the Durung Drung glacier below, a major source of the Zanskar.

The 6-day river journey, starting just 40 km below the glacial headwaters takes you through the Zanskar gorge sometimes referred to as the ‘Grand Canyon of Asia’. Big water Class 3 and 4 rapids, walks through orchards ripe with apricot, side-hikes to gravity-defying monasteries and an evening incantation with the monks, all add to the unique charm and adventure of our expedition to this rugged wilderness. The trip finally ends with a day in Leh. Exploring Leh’s bazaar and old town before you finally fly back to Delhi.

THE ITINERARY

Fixed date departures:

11th to 21st August (ex-Delhi) Trip -I

22nd Aug to 01st Sept (ex-Delhi) Trip -II

Day 01 (11th/22nd Aug)

Fly Delhi to Leh. A completely relaxed day letting your body acclimatize to the rarefied atmosphere. Overnight in Hotel Lha Rimo.

Day 02 (12th or 23rd Aug)

Drive Leh to Kargil with a visit enroute to Lamayuru Monastery and the Buddha statue at Mulbek. Overnight at hotel in Kargil.

Day 03 (13^th/24^th Aug)

The most spectacular drive filled with natural wonders. A drive to Ringdum Gompa (12,000 ft.). Few mountain drives get you this close to the Great Himalaya. The awesome mass of the Nun Kun massif over 7000m high with its hanging glacier across the road from us, dominating today’s journey. Overnight in the tented camp at Ringdum.

Day 04 (14^th /25^thAug)

The final road leg across the Pensi La at 14,500 ft ASL, surrounded by an awe inspiring arena of the Zanskar peaks. Below us is the Durung Drung glacier that feeds the Zanskar River. We drive on to camp 40 kms below the glacier at Remala village, our put-in point of the river trip. Overnight tented camp.

Day 05 (15th/26^th Aug)

Rafting expedition commences on the Doda river from Remala to Karsha covering approx 30 km. Class 2 rapids primarily; wide open valley surrounded by 6000 m Himalayan and Zanskar peaks. After settling into camp by 2 PM, take an hours hike up to the spectacular Kharsha Monastery for the evening incantations by the monks. Return back to camp for a relaxed dinner.

Day 06 (16^th/27^th Aug)

A relaxed start, the river journey continues past the confluence of the Doda with the Tsarap River, from where its called the Zanskar. Today’s rafting stretch is approximately 25 km. with primarily Class II & III rapids, passing by Zangla village the old capital of Zanskar. We end our days journey by lunch and camp near the village of Hanomil , just above the entrance of the Zanskar gorge. An afternoon hike to the nearby village for some local interaction and bonhomie rounds of a perfect day in this magnificent wilderness.

Day 07 (17^th/28^th Aug)

We depart early and enter the upper Zanskar gorge, completely dwarfed by the gigantic chasm walls, each turn bringing on amazing rock formations and colors. We soon come to ‘Major Surprise’ a newly formed class 5 rapid due to rockslide in recent years. Depending on the volume of water our guides take a decision to either run the rapid with an intrepid few, while most including the gear boats are portaged around the rapid. We continue on through the stunning gorge and exciting rapids finishing our day’s journey at Nyerak, the only camping site in the middle of the canyon. Take in the grandeur of this geological wonderland!

Day 08 (18^th/29^th Aug)

Layover Day. You have the option to just take it easy or go on a day long hike up this magnificent canyon first crossing the 25 ft span wooden Nyerak Bridge across one of the narrowest parts of the river. Up it is after that on the old trade route between Zanskar and Indus valleys, now a well known trekking route. This hike gives you a completely different perspective on the scale and geological formation of the gorge with stunning views as we climb higher above. We have a chance to interact with the hardy but cheerful locals as they trek between their habitations in this harsh and desolate lunarscape. We can visit the home of Tashi, an enterprising local of this region who weaves carpets and is a storehouse of local information. Later after a packed picnic lunch we descend back down to our river camp at Nyerak.

Day 09 (19th/30th Aug)

Action packed rafting day through the heart of the Zanskar Grand Canyon- 40 km of non-stop Class 3 and 4 whitewater, awe-inspiring rock formations and a stop for lunch at a gigantic cataract pouring out of a cliff face to an oasis below- paradise! We conclude our long days rafting at Lamaguru camp, the confluence of the Markha River with the Zanskar .

Day10 (20^th/31^st Aug)

We start early to raft the final leg of the Zanskar from Lamaguru to Nimu, covering approx 25 km to its confluence with the mighty Indus. Mostly Class 3 bouncy rapids including encountering the big water ‘Chilling’ rapid as the volume increases significantly after the Markha River has joined. Our raft trip ends at the confluence from where the river becomes the mighty Indus as it flows westward towards Pakistan and finally to the Arabian Sea. We drive back 40 km to Leh to check into our hotel to have lunch and take those much needed hot showers! Overnight at Lharimo Hotel.

Day 11 (21st Aug/01^st Sept)

Fly Leh /Del.

COSTS FOR AWARD PARTICIPANTS, AWARD HOLDERS:

1-5 paying pax : Rs.62750/-

Minimum 6 to 10 pax : Rs.59,000/-
11 pax & above : Rs.55,250/-
+ Single Supplement as and when applicable
+ 2.575% Govt. Service Tax

COST INCLUDES:

- Hotel Accommodation on twin share basis in Leh and Kargil.

- Tented and Rest house accommodation on twin share basis, enroute through the trip.

- Rafting and all specialised equipment.

- Meals throughout the trip.

COST EXCLUDES:

• INR Airfare Delhi / Leh / Delhi.
• Any expenditure of a personal nature such as laundry, telephone calls,etc.
• Alcoholic beverages
• Medical and/or Travel Insurance
• Any cost arising out of unforeseen circumstances such as landslides, bad weather and road conditions and any other circumstances beyond our control.

NOTE:

1. Himalayan River Runners reserve the right to modify and alter the itinerary due to circumstances beyond our control, such as weather and road conditions, condition on the river, etc. This right would be exercised in the best interest of your safety and well being.
2. Cost may change in case of a fuel hike or any other unprecedented hike. The cost is based on twin share accommodation for Srinagar & Leh and all points enroute as well as in tents. Should you be booking as a single person – the supplement will apply.
3. Himalayan River Runners will not be liable incase of delays on flights in the Delhi- Leh-Delhi sectors as well as for any delays due to bad weather etc.